Champagne Crowd PleaserThe Classes of Champagne What:This brand offers a champagne for every tax bracket because the holidays are nothing without this universal pleasure, bubbly.

The Dirt:
America of late is all about luxury for the masses, but Piper-Heidsieck’s recent releases remind us taste and quality should never be sacrificed in a champagne. Where a restaurant or club’s allure or success is determined by the ability to get in, champagne may be judged by its availability. The recent releases from this Remy Cointreau subsidiary prove champagne trumps most fancy trendy cocktails, or champagne’s cheaper competitors, sparkling wines from Spain (cava) and Italy (prosecco). Champagne embodies that simple class that cannot be learned, it just is. It’s the perfect black dress, a sleek car or a woman juggling it all, with grace and style. In this case, the difference is time; history and appreciation for the process are what separate the various champagne offerings on the market.

Piper-Heidsieck’s fall 2008 releases of Rare vintages embody this simple yet classy approach to life, through their 1979, 1988, 1998 and 1999 Chardonnay-based champagnes that finished with a touch of Pinot Noir. Naturally, the older the vintage, the fewer bottles are available. The limited run saw a release of just 36 bottles of the 1979 retailing at $1,300 and 324 bottles of the 1988 for $360 each, for the U.S. market. The 1998, however, gives a few more people the chance to taste a reasonably priced champagne with a woodsy scent complemented by creamy flavors that sit easily on the tongue. The 1998, which only comes in magnum (perfect for New Year’s eve), seems a middle ground for wine buffs and those just starting to learn about wine. While newcomers to the scene might assume they know little about champagne, a brief taste test proves the difference between mass marketed champagnes and vintages is obvious. It may be the creamy quality or the combination of scent and taste, but trying a range will prove the price differentials are justified.

If you are unable to find one of the 360 bottles of the magnum 1998 ($375) released in the U.S., you have one more chance. The newest vintage and largest release for the U.S. market is the 1999, for which there are 1,800 bottles at $250 each. The 1999 is a respectable vintage that hits the nose with delicate floral, tea and fruit notes, and touches the palate with a slightly spicy elegant flavor. While you might be tempted to mix, we plead that you leave the mimosas for the mass marketed brands. Champagne, like any good wine, is meant to be savored for its unique flavors and scents. A limited run like this one offers a nurtured flavor that will keep you coming back for more, perhaps if only to determine which note you are experiencing. Perhaps, upon graduating to a higher quality champagne, one realizes with the right bottle, it’s not a drink but an experience.

Where:
For more information on Piper-Heidsieck Rare or other collections, visit the Piper-Heidsieck website. Contact your local retailer to check on vintage availability.