New Zealand Part One: Auckland

Auckland is as you might expect the largest city in an island nation sandwiched between the South Pacific islands and Australia. With about 1.3 million, out of about four million for the entire country, Auckland is what I expected: a bit laid back, a bit isolated, somewhat homogenous, and overall, clean, pretty and pleasant.

On the plane, a native told me about the country, the Maori history and slang. I learned how to start to differentiate Australian and Kiwi accents, what the natural resources (natural gas, sheep, meat, dairy) are and how many Kiwis think. After a few days, I started to wonder if New Zealand might be the city version of the utopia that many cults and kibbutz owners have attempted.

Port View From Sky Tower

Wade, a 24-year-old flight instructor and native of the Auckland area, born to a Kiwi dad and an American mum, the latter of which fits the “went to New Zealand once and never left” bill, told me about his country while we shared three seats on a Qantas flight from LAX. When I asked about Maori, naturally attempting to liken it to the Native Americas in The States and the Aborigines in Australia, he said, you’re interested, huh? They are treated quite well, he said. Apparently, in the beginning, the sale of the Kiwi nation to the Brits was quite similar to the sale of New York by the Native Americans: the natives didn’t quite realize they were being screwed. But, while most Native Americans are isolated on reservations in America, by choice or not, the Maori people, though definitely a minority now (10-16% of the population), seem to be more intregated than the natives are in most nations.

I thought Wade’s thoughts on the matter were quite honest and fairly mature for a 24-year-old. Do I want a third of my tax money to go to welfare, most of which goes to the Maori? No, but sometimes people need help and so you help them. He also noted that the government has awarded a number of settlements to the descendents of the natives, more than I can say for the blacks in America that have family roots that go back to slavery.

Viaduct Quay Sky Tower

In any case, Auckland seemed quite homogenous. I viewed the diversity there, or lack thereof, as consisting of three major groups: white blonds, Maori and East Asians. Although I should admit that any city might seem pretty homogenous after six years in New York. In Auckland, most of the Asian community appears to be South Korean and Chinese, but there is also an Indian population. I was shocked to see how many of the women were blond, natural or not. It made me feel exotic and not for having nappy hair alone!

The trends around Auckland seem to be big tattoos for men, hot pants for women (AKA short shorts), coffee shops, and very little smoking. The women are a bit thick in the legs, which was a nice surpise, and given the popularity of hot pants, showing the cleavage was met with surprise and content on the part of the men. 

In addition to style trends, some top-down aims from the government include anti-smoking campaigns, social issues and environmental initiatives, thought despite widespread recycling, some folks say there is a problem with greenhouse gases from cows and spraying of 1080 to fight disease spread by possums. In addition to news that the government wants to work on a national campaign to get everyone off cancer sticks, I saw two television ads, both from government agencies, not NGOs, warning about depression and not to shake babies.

Cafe Culture: try a flat white

Of course, with a calm environment and a small nation, one whose entire population is half that of the five boroughs of NYC, comes fewer choices. I stayed at the All Seasons Auckland, a nice basic hotel that cost just NZ$158 for two nights, near Queen Street in CBD (Central Business District), and could find only one nail place, located near the Quay. I also learned that most shops close by 6 p.m. and Internet access is very rarely free. In addition, I observed that the coffee shop culture mirrors Europe. The massive cup of Joe is an American invention, created out of the demand to stay awake for the work hours and face time we endure, in a culture hell bent on fulfilling our desire for more, more, more. Also, here we Americans are treated because coffee means cappuccino and it is made with whole milk, unless you ask for trim. If you see filtered coffee on the menu, then you have the option for the standard American Joe.

Since the culture here is completely different, people sip cappucinos, because they can. I didn’t dare ask for skim milk. I appreciated the flat white, which was delicious with whole milk, and as a light lunch, a savory muffin made with spinach and feta. One similarity with the American culture though, are the portions. the muffins here are huge, like they are in America, and the dishes are quite large too.

 

But, no one seemed to notice color. It could be because it seems very live and let live, but it could also be a naivety factor. Take my plane mate, Wade. His mum is American but he has only been there a few times. When my religion came up, he asked if my parents had both American and Israeli citizenship. I had to explain that not all Jews are Isreali, in fact, I don’t think Israel was a country when my dad was born. But it wasn’t a discriminatory tone, it was merely not knowing. By the same token, the tourists in this part of the world take on different roles.

For once, I didn’t have to try hard not to appear like the ugly American. Though I never act like that, when you’re in Europe, they are always looking out for tall denim-clad youngsters on the piss (Kiwi for drinking). Here, the British are, likely usual, the big drinkers, and Aussies are the loud, sometimes obnoxious ones. That leaves the few Americans to just blend in, and we are glad to do so. Plus, we are rarely the most portly of the bunch! But, all tourists unite in observing the beautiful landscapes and the many offerings, such as wine country.

Sarasota vineyard on Waiheke island

On the ferry back to the city, there’s a great view sitting on the rear of the boat, but nostalgia sets in. You know that it’s not reality and like your slow transaction back to Auckland, you’ll eventually have a slow transition, at about 30,000 feet, back to America and your reality.

Viaduct Quay in Auckland

But, this transition is naturally much easier, for Auckland is a beautiful manageable city. I think what makes it so appealing is the architecture. It’s a rare city that has the design talent to not just harmoniously blend historical and new buildings and city structures, but to build in such a way that they complement each other. I don’t take a lot of pictures anywhere, but I couldn’t stop snapping here. There’s something about the combination of being so far from your reality and being in this beautiful country, where life is a bit simpler and the earth isn’t taken for granted, that makes you relax immediately. After just three days, I think I’m in love.